Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
